Dewalt 1600 Вт DWS713 Инструкция к товару онлайн [11/48] 850980
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Dewalt 1600 Вт DWS713 Инструкция к товару онлайн [11/48] 850980

Dewalt 1600 Вт DWS713 Инструкция к товару онлайн [11/48] 850980
9
ENGLISH
than 152 mm from the blade. Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when
cutting. Keep hands in position until the trigger has been released and the blade has
completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO THAT
YOU CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. DO NOT CROSS ARMS, AS SHOWN IN FIGUREM3.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance. As you move the mitre arm
left and right, follow it and stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the guard
louvers when following a pencilline.
Trigger Switch (Fig.N)
To turn the saw on, push the lock-off lever
32
to the left, then depress the trigger switch
1
.
The saw will run while the switch is depressed. Allow the blade to spin up to full operating
speed before making the cut. To turn the saw off, release the switch. Allow the blade to stop
before raising the saw head. There is no provision for locking the switch on. A hole
33
is
provided in the trigger for insertion of a padlock to lock the switchoff.
Always be sure the blade has stopped before removing it from thekerf.
Dust Extraction (Fig.O)
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn tool off and
disconnect tool from power source before transporting, making any adjustments
or removing/installing attachments or accessories. An accidental start-up can
causeinjury.
WARNING: Certain dust, such as oak or beech dust, is considered carcinogenic, especially
in connection with wood-treatmentadditives.
• Always use dustextraction.
• Provide for good ventilation of the workspace.
• It is recommended to wear an appropriaterespirator.
CAUTION: Never operate this saw unless the dust bag or
DeWALT
dust extractor is
in place. Wood dust may create a breathinghazard.
CAUTION: Check and clean the dust bag each time afterusing.
WARNING: When sawing aluminium, remove the dust bag to avoid the risk offire.
Your miter saw has a built-in dust port
12
that allows connection to either the supplied dust
bag
34
, 35mm nozzles or direct attachment to the
DeWALT
AirLock(DWV9000-XJ).
Observe the relevant regulations in your country for the materials to beworked.
To Attach the Dust Bag
1. Fit the dust bag
34
to the dust port
12
as shown in FigureO.
To Empty the Dust Bag
1. Remove dust bag
34
from the saw and gently shake or tap the dust bag toempty.
2. Reattach the dust bag back onto the dust port
12
.
You may notice that all the dust will not come free from the bag. This will not affect cutting
performance but will reduce the saw's dust collection efficiency. To restore your saw's dust
collection efficiency, depress the spring inside the dust bag when you are emptying it and tap
it on the side of the trash can or dustreceptacle.
External Dust Extraction (Fig. O)
When vacuuming dry dust that is especially detrimental to health or carcinogenic, use a
special dust Class M vacuumcleaner.
Connecting to an AirLock Compatable Dust Extractor (Fig.O)
The dust extractor port
12
on your mitre saw is compatable with the D
e
WALT AirLock
connection system. The AirLock allows for a fast, secure connection between the dust
extractor hose
38
and the mitresaw.
1. Ensure the collar on the AirLock connector
39
is in the unlock position. (Refer to FigureO.)
Align notches
40
on collar and AirLock connector as shown for unlock and lockpositions.
2. Push the AirLock connector onto the dust extractor port
12
.
3. Rotate the collar to the lockedposition.
NOTE: The ball bearings inside collar lock into slot and secure the connection.The mitre
saw is now securely connected to the dustextractor.
Cutting With Your Saw
NOTE: Although this saw will cut wood and many non-ferrous materials, we will limit our
discussion to the cutting of wood only. The same guidelines apply to the other materials. DO
NOT CUT FERROUS (IRON AND STEEL) MATERIALS OR MASONRY WITH THIS SAW. Do
not use any abrasiveblades.
Crosscuts (Fig. N)
Cutting of multiple pieces is not recommended but can be done safely by ensuring that each
piece is held firmly against the table and fence. A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the
grain at any angle. A straight crosscut is made with the mitre arm at the zero degree position.
Set the mitre arm at zero, hold the wood on the table and firmly against the fence. Turn on the
saw by squeezing the trigger switch shown in FigureN.
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower the arm smoothly and slowly to cut
through the wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before raisingarm.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece
damage and personalinjury.
Mitre crosscuts are made with the mitre arm at some angle other than zero. This angle is
often 45° for making corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 50° left or right. After
selecting the desired mitre angle, be sure to tighten the mitre lock knob. Make the cut as
describedabove.
To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of wood, match the angle as close as
possible. Cut the wood a little too long and measure from the pencil line to the cut edge to
determine which direction to adjust the mitre angle and recut. This will take some practice,
but it is a commonly usedtechnique.
Bevel Cuts (Fig.A)
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade at a bevel to the wood. In order to set the
bevel, loosen the bevel lock knob
11
and move the saw to the left as desired. (It is necessary
to move the left side of the fence to allow clearance). Once the desired bevel angle has been
set, tighten the bevel clamp knobfirmly.
Bevel angles can be set from 3° right to 48° left and can be cut with the mitre arm set between
zero and 50° right or left. Ensure the fence has been adjusted properly. When cutting left bevel,
or right mitre compound cuts, it will be necessary to remove the adjustablefence.
Quality of cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of things contributing to the quality of the
cut are: material being cut, blade type, blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the
quality of thecut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60–80 tooth
carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desiredresults.
Ensure that material does not creep while cutting. Clamp it securely in place. Always let the
blade come to a full stop before raisingarm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, apply a piece of masking tape
on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape
when the cut isfinished.
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended saw blades for your saw and
select the one that best fits your needs. Refer to Saw Blades under Optional Accessories for
correct sawblade.
Clamping the Workpiece
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and
disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change
accessories or make anyadjustments.
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become
unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the
saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become
unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a
stable surface. Personal injury mayoccur.
WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever
the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw–not to any other
part of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of
thesaw.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece
damage and personalinjury.
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by hand, (irregular
shape, etc.) or your hand would be less than 100 mm from the blade, a clamp or other fixture
should beused.
For best results use the clamp provided with yoursaw.
Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes
and shapes of material. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps. Take time to make a
dry run before making the cut. The left fence will slide from side to side to aid inclamping.
To Install Clamp (Fig. A)
1. Insert the clamp into one of the four locations
15
on thebase.
2. Lifting up on the arm of the clamp can rapidly adjust the height, then use the fine adjust
knob to firmly clamp theworkpiece.
NOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling. ALWAYS MAKE DRY
RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE
CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW ORGUARDS.
Support for Long Pieces
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and
disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change
accessories or make anyadjustments.
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONGPIECES.
Never use another person as a substitute for a table extension; as additional support for a
workpiece that is longer or wider than the basic mitre saw table or to help feed, support or pull
theworkpiece.
For best results, use the DWX723, DE7260 or DE7033 mitre saw stand to extend the table
width of your saw. This is available from your dealer at extracost.
Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to
keep the ends fromdropping.
Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes and Other Four-Sided
Projects (Fig. P)
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we suggest that you try a few simple
projects using scrap wood until you develop a “FEEL” for yoursaw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitreing corners like the one shown in FigureP. Sketch A in
FigureP shows a joint made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two
boards at 45° each to produce a 90° mitre corner. For this joint the mitre arm was locked in the
zero position and the bevel adjustment was locked at 45°. The wood was positioned with the
broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence. The cut could also be
made by mitreing right and left with the broad surface against thefence.

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