BMW K75 [202/236] Bleeding the hydraulic brake system

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202 Chapter 9 Wheels brakes and tyres components of a brake system they should be renewed for safety s sake 7 Carefully examine the seals and piston renewing them if there is the slightest doubt about their condition although the seals should be renewed as a matter of course whenever they are disturbed If the slightest trace of damage is found in the master cylinder bore the master cylinder should be renewed as a complete assembly 8 Carefully clean each component and lubricate it with clean hydraulic fluid then reassemble and refit the assembly following the reverse of the above instructions To prevent water which leaks past the rubber dust cover from causing corrosion to form around the piston front end pack the recess at the front of the master cylinder outside with silicone grease or a similar waterproofing agent which will not attack the rubber seals Refit the dust cover Pack the brake pedal pivot components with the specified grease see Routine Maintenance on reassembly 9 Refill the system with clean brake fluid and bleed it as described in Section 9 to remove all traces of air Wash off all surplus hydraulic fluid and check that the brake operates correctly and efficiently before using the machine on the road 10 When refitting the brake pedal note that its height can be adjusted via the threaded adjuster and locknut but check always that there is free play which is measured most easily at the pedal tip between the end of the adjuster and the piston While BMW do not specify the required free play there should be a very small amount discernible at all times or severe brake drag will result 9 Bleeding the hydraulic brake system 1 The method of bleeding a brake system of air as described below applies equally to either the front brake or to a rear brake of the hydraulically actuated type 2 If the brake action becomes spongy or if any part of the hydraulic system is disturbed it is necessary to bleed the system in order to remove all traces of air The procedure is best carried out by two people 3 Check the fluid level in the reservoir and top up with new fluid of the specified type if required Keep the reservoir at least half full during the bleeding procedure if the level is allowed to fall too far air will enter the system requiring that the procedure be started again from scratch Refit the cap onto the reservoir to prevent the ingress of dust or the ejection of a spout of fluid 4 Remove the dust cap from the caliper bleed nipple and clean the area with a rag Place a clean glass jar below the caliper and connect a pipe from the bleed nipple to the jar A clear plastic tube should be used so that the air bubbles can be more easily seen When working on the front brakes it may well prove necessary to connect both nipples at the same time and to operate them simultaneously Pour enough clean hydraulic fluid into the jar s to immerse the end of the pipe ensure that the pipe end remains submerged to stop air returning into the system whenever the pressure is released throughout the operation 5 If parts of the system have been renewed so that it must first be filled open the bleed nipple about one turn and pump the brake lever until fluid starts to issue from the clear tube Tighten the bleed nipple and then continue the normal bleeding operation as described below Keep a close check on the reservoir level whilst the system is beinq filled 6 Apply the brake as firmly as possible and hold it in this position against the fluid pressure If the brake feels spongy it may be necessary to pump it rapidly a number of times until pressure is built up With pressure applied loosen the bleed nipple about half a turn Tighten the nipple as soon as the brake lever or pedal has reached its full travel and then release Repeat this operation until no more air bubbles are expelled with the fluid into the glass jar When this condition is reached the air bleeding operation should be complete resulting in a firm feel to the brake lever or pedal If sponginess is still evident continue the bleeding operation it may be that an air bubble trapped at the top of the system has yet to work down through the caliper 7 The description above is an outline of what can be a very time consuming operation great care and patience should be exercised at all times When working on the front brakes note that if the forks are held on full left lock the master cylinder becomes the highest point in the system this may help to clear a bubble On the rear brake the caliper can be dismounted and hung from the frame seat tubes with a spacer wedged between its pads and care taken not to distort or damage the brake hose and pipe to achieve a similar result Note also that at approximately half the lever or pedal travel air bubbles can escape from the system back into the fluid reservoir repeated gentle applications of the lever or pedal to this point may well release a quantity of air 8 In particularly stubborn cases bubbles may be released by tapping the brake pipes and hoses lightly or by topping up the reservoir and operating the brake rapidly without splashing fluid or allowing air into the system until the reservoir is nearly empty to flush the system through In some cases the only answer is to remove as much air as possible and then to leave the machine overnight ensuring that the system is fully sealed against the entry of dirt or moisture by refitting the reservoir cap or cover and tightening the bleed nipples so that the remaining air will build up into one bigger bubble at the top of the system 9 Note A spongy brake can also be caused by fluid that has not been renewed at the required annual interval and has badly deteriorated by defective brake hoses by defective master cylinder or caliper seals or by a caliper piston that it sticking due to corrosion All these points should be checked carefully if the brake remains spongy after thorough bleeding 10 Do not confuse excessive lever or pedal travel with a spongy feel if the brake discs are excessively warped for example or if the calipers or discs are not securely fastened the brake pads and caliper pistons will be knocked back away from the disc as the wheel rotates This will cause a marked increase in lever or pedal travel before normal pressure is achieved when riding the difference may not be noticed Disc runout should be checked carefully see Section 5 as should the security of the brake system component mountings 11 When all traces of air have been removed from the system top up the reservoir and refit the diaphragm and cap or cover Check the entire system for leaks and check also that the brake system in general is functioning efficiently before using the machine on the road 12 Brake fluid drained from the system will almost certainly be contaminated either by foreign matter or more commonly by the absorption of water from the air All hydraulic fluids are hygroscopic that is they are capable of drawing water from the atmosphere and thereby degrading their specifications In view of this and the relative cheapness of the fluid old fluid should always be discarded 13 Great care should be taken not to spill hydraulic fluid on any painted cycle parts it is a very effective paint stripper Also the plastic glasses in the instrument heads and most other plastic parts will be damaged by contact with the fluid 9 4 Be careful not to overtighten bleed nipples use specified torque setting where available

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