Stanley STSM1510-B9 [10/44] English
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Stanley STSM1510-B9 [10/44] English

Stanley STSM1510-B9 [10/44] English
10
ENGLISH
(Original instructions)
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the
workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where
the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully
remove tape when finished.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper
balance. As you move the mitre arm left and right, follow it
and stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through
the guard louvers when following a pencil line
Clamping the Workpiece
Turn Off and Unplug Saw
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against
the fence by hand (irregular shape, etc.) or your hand will be
within 6” of the blade, a clamp or fixture must be used.
Other convenient clamps such as spring, bar or Cclamps
may be appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of
workpieces. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps
and make a dry run before making the cut.
Support for Long Pieces
Turn Off and Unplug Saw
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES For best results, use
an extension work support to extend the table width of your
saw. Support long workpieces using any convenient means
such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends from
dropping.
Cutting Picture Frames, and Other Four Sided Projects
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we
suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood
until you develop a “FEEL” for your saw. Your saw is the
perfect tool for mitring corners like the ones shown in Figure
8, which shows a joint made by setting the mitre arm at 45
degrees to to mitre the two boards to form a 90 degree
corner. To make this type of joint, set the mitre arm to 45
degrees. The wood was positioned with the broad flat side
against the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
As the number of sides changes, so do the mitre angles.
The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of
shapes.
(The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length.) For a
shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following
formula. 180 degrees divided by the number of sides equals
the mitre.
Cutting Compound Mitres
A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle and a
bevel angle at the same time. This is the type of cut used to
make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown
in Figure 8.
NOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that
the bevel clamp knob (10) and the mitre clamp handle (4)
are securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened after
making any changes in bevel or mitre.
Cutting Crown Molding
In order to fit properly, crown molding must be mitred with
extreme accuracy. The two flat surfaces on a given piece of
crown molding are at angles that, when added together,
equal exactly 90 degrees. Most, but not all, crown molding
has a top rear angle (the section that fits flat against the
ceiling) of 52 degrees and a bottom rear angle (the part that
fits flat against the wall) of 38 degrees.
Pretesting with scrap material is extremely important! Place
the bottom side (the side that will be against the wall) against
the Mitre SAW FENCE. Place the top (that part that will be
against the ceiling) against the saw table and the crown
molding fence. Instructions for cutting crown MOLDING
angled between the fence and the TABLE of the saw for all
cuts:
1. Angle the molding so the bottom of the molding (part
which goes against the wall when installed) is against the
fence and the top of the molding is resting on the table of
the saw.
- Examples -
No. Sides Angle Mitre
4 45°
5 36°
6 30°
7 25.7°
8 22.5°
9 20°
10 18°

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