BLACK & DECKER BES710-QS [15/36] Bevel square to table adjustment fig p

BLACK & DECKER BES710-QS [15/36] Bevel square to table adjustment fig p
15
ENGLISH
Use of Cut line System (Fig. N)
Note: The mitre saw must be connected to a power source.
The Cut line System is equipped with an on/off switch (21).
The Cut line System is independent of the mitre saw’s trigger
switch.
The light does not need to be on in order to operate the saw.
To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of wood:
 Turn on the Cut line system, then pull down on the
operating handle (18) to bring the saw blade close to the
wood. The shadow of the blade will appear on the wood.
 Align the pencil line with the edge of the blade’s shadow.
You may have to adjust the mitre or bevel angles in order
to match the pencil line exactly.
Crosscuts
A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the grain at any
angle. A straight crosscut is made with the miter arm at the
zero degree position. Set and lock the miter arm at zero, hold
the wood rmly on the table and against the fence. With the
rail lock knob tightened, turn on the saw by squeezing the
trigger switch (19).
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower
the arm smoothly and slowly to cut through the wood. Let the
blade come to a full stop before raising arm. When cutting
anything larger than a 51mm x 102mm, use an out-down-back
motion with the rail lock knob loosened. Pull the saw out,
toward you, lower the saw head down toward the workpiece,
and slowly push the saw back to complete the cut. Do not
allow the saw blade to contact the top of the workpiece while
pulling out. The saw may run toward you, possibly causing
personal injury or damage to the workpiece.
Warning! Always use a work clamp to maintain control and
reduce the risk of workpiece damage and personal injury.
Note: The rail lock knob must be loose to allow the saw
to slide along its rails.
Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle
other than zero. This angle is often 45º for making corners, but
can be set anywhere from zero to 47º left or 47° right. Make
the cut as described above.
To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of wood,
match the angle as close as possible. Cut the wood a little
too long and measure from the pencil line to the cut edge
to determine which direction to adjust the miter angle and
recut. This will take some practice, but it is a commonly used
technique.
Body and hand position (Fig. O1 – O4)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the
miter saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer.
Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands no closer
than 152 mm from the blade. Hold the workpiece tightly to the
table and the fence when cutting. Keep hands in position until
the trigger has been released and the blade has completely
stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS
(UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO THAT YOU
CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. DO NOT CROSS
HANDS, AS SHOWN IN FIGURE O3 and O4.
Keep both feet rmly on the oor and maintain proper balance.
As you move the miter arm left and right, follow it and stand
slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the guard
louvers when following a pencil line.
Bevel square to table adjustment (Fig. P)
To align the blade square to the table, lock the arm in the
down position with the lock down pin. Place a square against
the blade, ensuring the square is not on top of a tooth. Loosen
the bevel lock knob and ensure the arm is rmly against the
0° bevel stop. Rotate the 0° bevel adjustment screw with the
10 mm spanner (not provided) as necessary so that the blade
is at 0° bevel to the table, as measured with the square.
Cutting picture frames, shadow boxes and other
four-sided projects (Fig. Q1, Q2)
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we
suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood
until you develop a “feel” for your saw. Your saw is the perfect
tool for mitering corners like the one shown in Figure Q1.
Sketch A in Figure Q2 shows a joint made by using the bevel
adjustment to bevel the edges of the two boards at 45º each
to produce a 90º corner. For this joint the miter arm was
locked in the zero position and the bevel adjustment was
locked at 45º. The wood was positioned with the broad at
side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
The cut could also be made by mitering right and left with the
broad surface against the fence.
Cutting trim molding and other frames (Fig. Q2)
Sketch B in Figure Q2 shows a joint made by setting the miter
arm at 45º to miter the two boards to form a 90º corner. To
make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and
the miter arm to 45º. Once again, position the wood with the
broad at side on the table and the narrow edge against the
fence.
Figures Q1 and Q2 are for four-sided objects only. As the
number of sides changes, so do the miter and bevel angles.
The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of
shapes.

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