Suzuki GS500E (1989-1997) [145/221] Inspection

Suzuki GS500E (1989-1997) [145/221] Inspection
6-12 Brakes, wheels and tyres
base of the master cylinder to reveal the
pushrod retaining circlip.
11 Depress the push rod and, using circlip
pliers, remove the circlip. Slide out the
pushrod, piston assembly and spring. If they
are difficult to remove, apply low pressure
compressed air to the fluid outlet. Lay the
parts out In the proper order to prevent
confusion during reassembly.
12 Clean all of the parts with clean brake fluid
or denatured alcohol. If compressed air is
available, use it to dry the parts thoroughly
(make sure it's filtered and unlubricated).
Caution: Do not, under any circumstances,
use a petroleum-based solvent to clean
brake parts.
13 Check the master cylinder bore for
corrosion, scratches, nicks and score marks.
If the necessary measuring equipment is
available, compare the dimensions of the
piston and bore to those given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter. If
damage is evident, the master cylinder must
be replaced with a new one. If the master
cylinder is in poor condition, then the caliper
should be checked as well.
14 If required, unscrew the fluid reservoir
hose union screw and detach the elbow from
the master cylinder. Discard the O-ring as a
new one must be fitted on installation. Inspect
the reservoir hose for cracks or splits and
replace If necessary.
15 The spring, piston and circllp are only
supplied as an assembly which includes a new
pushrod and dust boot. Use all the new parts,
regardless of the condition of the old 0f1es.
16 Install the spring in the master cylinder so
that its tapered (smaller) end faces the piston.
17 Lubricate the piston assembly components
with clean hydraulic fluid and install the
assembly into the master cylinder, making sure
all the components are the correct way round.
Make sure the lips on the cup seals do not tum
inside out when they are slipped into the bore.
18 Install and depress the pushrod, then
install a new circlip. making sure it is property
seated in the groove.
19 Install the rubber dust boot, making sure
the lip is seated properly In the groove.
20 If removed, fit a new O-ring to the fluid
reservoir hose union, then install the union
onto the master cylinder and secure it with its
screw. Reconnect the fluid reservoir hose and
secure it with its clamp.
Installation
21 Install the master cylinder onto the footrest
bracket and tighten its mounting bolts to the
torque setting specified at the beginning of the
Chapter (see lHustration 9.6).
22 Secure the fluid reservoir to the frame with
its retaining bolt and nut (see illustration 9.7).
Ensure that the hose is securely connected
between the master cylinder and reservoir,
correctly routed and secured by clamps at
each end (see Hlustratlon 9.8). If the clamps
have weakened, use new ones.
23 Connect the brake hose banjo bolt to the
removing all the air bubbles from the brake fluid
reservoirs, the hoses and the brake calipers.
Bleeding is necessary whenever a brake syst~
hydraulic connection is loosened, when a
component or hose is replaced, or when the
mast« cylinder or caliper is overhauled. leaks
in the system may also allow air to enter, but
leaking brake fluid will reveal their presence and
warn you of the need for repair.
2 To bleed the brakes, you will need some
new, clean brake fluid of the recommended
type (see Specifications), a length of clear
vinyl or plastic tubing, a small container
partially filled with clean brake fluid, some
rags and a spanner to fit the brake caliper
bleed valves.
3 Cover the fuel tank and other painted
components to prevent damage in the event
that brake fluid is spilled.
4 If bleeding the rear brake, remove the seat
for access to the fluid reservoir.
S Remove the reservoir cover, diaphragm
plate (front brake only) and diaphragm and
slowly pump the brake lever or pedal a few
times, until no air bubbles can be seen
floating up from the holes in the bottom of the
reservoir. Doing this bleeds the air from the
master cylinder end of the line. Loosely refit
the reservoir cover.
6 Pull the dust cap off the bleed valve (...
illustration). Attach one end of the clear vinyl or
plastic tubing to the bleed valve and submerge
the other end in the brake floo in the cootainer.
7 Remove the reservoir cover and check the
fluid level. Do not allow the level to drop below
the lower mark during the bleeding ~.
8 Carefully pump the brake lever or pedal
three or four times and hold it in (front) or
down (rear) while opening the caliper bleed
valve. When the valve is opened, brake fluid
will flow out of the caliper Into the clear tubing
and the lever will move toward the handlebar
or the pedal will move down.
9 Retighten the bleed valve, then release the
brake lever or pedal gradually. Repeat the
process until no air bubbles are visible in the
brake fluid leaving the caliper and the lever or
pedal is firm when applied. On completion,
disconnect the bleeding equipment, then
tighten the bleed valve to the torque setting
specified at the beginning of the Chapter and
install the dust cap.
10 Check the fluid level as described in Dally
(pre-ride) checks and install the diaphragm,
master cylinder, using a new sealing washer
on each side of the banjo union. Ensure that
the hose is positioned so that it butts against
the lug (see illustration 9.4) and tighten the
banjo bolt to the specified torque setting.
24 If removed, install the clevis locknut, the
clevis and its nut onto the master cylinder
pushrod end, but do not yet tighten the locknut.
25 Align the pushrod actuating arm with the
master cylinder pushrod clevis, then slide in
the clevis pin and secure it using a new split
pin (see illustration 9.5).
28 If the clevis position on the pushrod was
disturbed, re-set the brake pedal to its
specified height (Chapter 1. Section 14).
27 Fill the fluid reservoir with the specified
fluid (see Specifications) and bleed the
system following the procedure in Section 11.
28 Check the operetion of the brake carefully
before riding the motorcycle.
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10 Brake hoses and unions -
inspection and replacement
Inspection
1 Brake hose condition should be checked
regularly and the hoses replaced at the
specified interval (see Chapter 1).
2 Twist and flex the rubber hoses while
looking for cracks, bulges and seeping fluid.
Check extra carefully around the areas where
the hoses connect with the banjo fittings, as
these are common areas for hose failure.
3 Inspect the metal banjo union fittings
connected to the brake hoses. If the fittings are
rusted, scratched or cracked. replace them.
Replacement
4 The brake hoses have banjo union fittings
on each end. Cover the surrounding area with
plenty of rags and unscrew the banjo bolt on
each end of the hose. Detach the hose from
any clips that may be present and remove the
hose. Discard the sealing washers.
5 Position the new hose, making sure it isn't
twisted or otherwise strained, and abut the
tab on the hose union with the lug on the
component casting. Install the banjo bolts,
using new sealing washers on both sides of
the unions, and tighten them to the torque
setting specified at the beginning of this
Chapter. Make sure they are correctly aligned
and routed clear of all moving components.
6 Flush the old brake fluid from the system.
refill with the recommended fluid (see
Specifications) and bleed the air from the
system (see Section 11). Check the operation
of the brakes before riding the motorcycle.
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11 Brake system bleeding
11.6 Brake caliper
valve (arrow)
1 BleedIng the brakes is simply the proceea of
bleed'

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