Suzuki GS500E (1989-1997) [146/221] Wheels

Suzuki GS500E (1989-1997) [146/221] Wheels
diaphragm plate (front brake) and cover. Wipe
up any spilled brake fluid and check the entire
system for leaks.
;I; "it's not possible to produce
H . N a finn feel to the lever or
I pedal the fluid my be aerated.
Let the brake fluid in the
system stabillse for a few hours and
then t8pe8t the procedure when the tiny
bubbles In the system have settled out.
12 Wheel. - inspection and repair
1 In order to carry out a proper inspection of
the wheels, it is necessary to support the bike
upright so that the wheel being inspected Is
raised off the ground. Position the motorcycle
on its centre stand. Clean the wheels
thoroughly to remove mud and dirt that may
interfere with the inspection procedure or
mask defects. Make a general check of the
wheels and tyres as described in Chapter 1.
2 Attach a dial gauge to the fork slider or the
swingarm and position its stem against the
side of the rim (see Illustration). Spin the
wheel slowly and check the axial (side-to-
side) runout of the rim. In order to accurately
check radial (out of round) runout with the dial
gauge, the wheel would have to be removed
from the machine, and the tyre from the
wheel. With the axle clamped in a vice and the
dial gauge positioned on the top of the rim,
the wheel can be rotated to check the runout.
3 An easier, though slightly less accurate,
method is to attach a stiff wire pointer to the
fork slider or the swingarm and position the
end a fraction of an inch from the wheel (where
the wheel and tyre join). If the wheel is true, the
distance from the pointer to the rim will be
constant as the wheel is rotated. Note: If wheel
nJnout is excessive, check the wheel bearings
very carefully before lep/Bcing the wheel.
Brakes, wheels and tyres 6.13
string. Measure the distance from the front
tyre sidewall to the string.
6 Repeat the procedure on the other side of
the motorcycle. The distance from the front
tyre sidewall to the string should be equal on
both sides.
7 As was previously pointed out, a perfectly
straight length of wood may be substituted for
the string - the procedure is the same.
8 If the distance between the string and tyre
is greater on one side, or if the rear wheel
appears to be cocked, refer to Chapter 1,
Section 11 and make sure the drive chain
adjusters are correctly aligned.
9 If the front-to-back alignment is correct, the
wheels still may be out of alignm8f1t vertically.
10 Using the plumb bob, or other suitable
weight, and a length of string, check the rear
wheel to make sure it is vertical. To do this,
hold the string against the tyre upper sidewall
and allow the weight to settle just off the floor.
When the string touches both the upper and
lower tyre sidewalls and is perfectly straight,
the wheel is vertical. If it is not, place thin
spacers under one leg of the stand.
11 Once the rear wheel is vertical, check the
front wheel in the same manner. If both
wheels are not perfectly vertical, the frame
and/or major suspension components are
bent.
4 The wheels should also be visually
inspected for cracks, flat spots on the rim and
other damage. look very closely for dents in
the area where the tyre bead contacts the rim.
Dents In this area may prevent complete
sealing of the tyre against the rim, which leads
to deflation of the tyre over a period of time. If
damage is evident, or If runout in either
direction is excessive, the wheel will have to
be replaced with a new one. Never attempt to
repair a damaged cast alloy wheel.
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13 Wheels - alignment check
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1 Misalignment of the wheels, which may be
due to a cocked rear wheel or a bent frame or
fork yokes, can cause strange and possibly
serious handling problems. If the frame or
yokes are at fault, repair by a frame specialist
or replacement with new parts are the only
alternatives.
2 To check the alignment you will need an
assistant. a length of string or a perfectly
straight piece of wood and a ruler. A plumb bob
or other suitable weight will also be requi'ed.
3 In order to make a proper check of the
wheels It is necessary to support the bike in an
upright position, either on Its centre stand or on
an auxiliary stand. Measure the width of both
tyres at their widest points. Stbtract the smaller
measurement from the larger measurement,
then divide the d~ by two. The resUt is
the amount of offset that should exist between
the front and rear tyres on both sides.
4 If a string is used, have your assistant hold
one end of it about halfway between the floor
and the rear axle, touching the rear sidewall of
the tyre.
5 Run the other end of the string forward and
pull it tight so that It is roughly parallel to the
floor. Slowly bring the string Into contact with
the front sidewall of the rear tyre, then turn
the front wheel until it is parallel with the
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14 Front wheel -
removal and installation
Removal
1 Position the motorcycle on its centre stand
and support it under the crankcase so that the
front wheel is off the ground. Always make
sure the motorcycle is properly supported.
2 Remove the screw securing the speedo-
meter cable on the left-hand side of the wheel
hub and detach the cable from Its drive unit
(see illustration).
6
14.2 Unscrew the
cable retaining screw (arrow)
speedometer

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