![Suzuki GS500E (1989-1997) [40/221] Engine clutch and transmission 2 5](/img/pdf.png)
Suzuki GS500E (1989-1997) [40/221] Engine clutch and transmission 2 5
![Suzuki GS500E (1989-1997) [40/221] Engine clutch and transmission 2 5](/views2/1121322/page40/bg28.png)
The engine/transmission unit is an air-
cooled parallel twin, fitted across the frame.
The engine has two valves per cylinder,
operated by double overhead camshafts. The
camshafts are chain driven off the crankshaft
and run in plain bearings.
The engine/transmlssion unit is constructed
in aluminium alloy with the crankcase being
divided horizontally. The crankcase Incor-
porates a wet sump (oil pan), pressure fed
lubrication system, and houses a gear driven
oil pump. The one-piece forged crankshaft
runs in four main bearings. The left-hand end
of the crankshaft carries the alternator rotor,
whilst the right-hand end canies the Ignition
rotor and pulse generator coils.
The clutch Is of the wet multi-plate type and
is gear driven off the crankshaft. The trans-
mission is of the six-speed constant mesh
type. Drive is taken to the rear wheel by chain.
The components and assemblies listed
below can be removed without having to
remove the engine/transmission assembly
from the frame. If however, a number of areas
require attention at the same time. removal of
the engine is recommended.
Valve cover
CamchBin tensloner
CamsIJans
Cylinder tI8Id
Cylinder b/OOk, pistons and piston rings
ignition rotor and pulse generator coil
Clutch
Oil pump
Gearehange mechanism
(eJdemaJ components)
AJtemafor
Statter cJutchand idle gear
Sump (oil pan), oil strainer and oil
pressu/8 relief valve
Startermotor
It is necessary to remove the engine!
transmission assembly from the frame and
separate the crankcase halves to gain access
to the following components.
Transmission shafls
Selector drom and forl<s
CI8IIkshaft and bearings
88I8ncer shsftand beerlngs
Connecting rod bIg-ends and beerltJQS
Engine, clutch and transmission 2-5
Note: The engine is very heavy. Engine
removal and instBllatJon should be canted out
with the aid of at leestone a$Sist8nt; persona/
injury or damage could OCCIJr if the engine fills
or is dlOpped. A hydraulic or mechanica/ Boor
jack should be used to support and lower or
raise the engine If possible.
Removal
1 Position the bike on Its centre stand. Work
can be made easier by raising the machine to
a suitable working height on a hydraulic ramp
Of a suitable platform.
2 If the engine is dirty, particularly around its
mountings, wash it thoroughly before starting
any major dismantling work. This will make
work much easi« and rule out the possibility
of caked on lumps of dirt falling Into some
vital component.
3 Drain the engine oil and remove the oil fllter
(see Chapt«1).
4 Remove the seat and the side panels (see
Chapter 7) and disconnect the battery
negative (-ve) lead (see Chapter 8). Trace the
negative lead to its connector and disconnect
it. Feed the lead through to the engine and
coil it on the crankcase. noting its routing.
5 Rwnove the fuel tank (see Chapter 3).
8 Slacken the screws securing the ignition
control unit to the left-hand side of the frame
to allow the connectors of the wiring routed
behind the unit to pass through. The ignition
control unit can be removed if preferred (see
Chapt« 4).
7 Remove the carburettors (see Chapter 3).
Plug the engine intake manifolds with clean
rag.
a Unscrew the knurled ring securing the
lower end of the tachometer cable to its drive
unit on the front of the cylinder head and
withdraw the cable inner end from the drive
unit (see IIk8tration).
9 Disconnect the spark plug leads from the
plugs and secure them clew of the engine.
10 Trace the starter motor cable back from
the starter motor (located under a cover
behind the cylinder block) to the starter relay.
1 It is not always easy to det.-minewhen or If
an engine should be completely overhauled,
as a number of factors must be considered.
2 High mileage is not necessarily an
indication that an overhaul Is needed, while
low mileage, on the other hand, does not
preclude the need for an overhaul. Frequency
of servicing is probably the single most
important consideration. An engine that has
regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as
well as other required maintenance, will most
likely give many miles of reliable service.
Conversely, a neglected engine.. or one which
has not been run in property, may require an
overhaul very early in its life.
3 Exhaust smoke and excessive oil
consumption are both indications that piston
rings and/or valve guides are in need of
attention, although make sure that the fault is
not due to oil leakage.
4 If the engine Is making obvious knocking or
rumbling noises, the connecting rod and/or
main bearings are probably at fault.
5 Loss of power, rough running, valve train
noise and high fuel consumption rates may
also point to the need for an overhaul,
especially if all are present at the same time. If
a complete tune-up does not help, major
mechanical wort< is the only solution.
S An engine overhaul generally involves
restoring the Internal pS'ts to the specifications
of a new engine. The piston rings and main and
connecting rod bearings are usually repleced
and the cylinder walls honed or, If necessary,
re-bored during a major overhaul. Generally the
valve seats are re-ground, since they are
usually in less than perfect condition at this
point. The end result should be a like new
engine that will give as many trouble-free miles
as the original.
7 Before beginning the overhaul, read through
the related procedures to famillarise yourself
with the scope and requirements of the job.
Overhauling an engine is not all that difficult,
but it is time consuming. Plan on the bike
being tied up for a minimum of two weeks.
Check on the availability of parts and make
sure any necessary special tools, equipment
and supplies are obtained in advance.
S Most wort< can be done with typical
workshop hand tools, although a number of
precision measuring tools are required for
Inspecting parts to determine If they must be
replaced. Often a dealer will handle the
inspection of parts and offer advice
concerning reconditioning and replacement.
As a general rule, time is the primary cost of
an overhaul so It does not pay to install worn
or substandard parts.
9 As a final note, to ensure maximum life and
minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine,
everything must be assembled with care in a
spotlessly clean environment.
5.8 Unscrew the knurted ring (arrow) to
release the tachometer cable
Содержание
- 3238 224 7w1 2
- Gs500e twi 2
- Matthew coom bs 2
- Service and repair manu 2
- Suzuki 2
- Contents 3
- Introduction 3
- Living with your suzuki gs 3
- Maintenance 3
- Pre ride checks 3
- Table of contents 3
- Contents 4
- Reference 4
- Repairs and overhaul 4
- By julian ryder 5
- Every which way 5
- Introduction 5
- Suzuki 5
- 750 850 1000 and 1100 cc sizes in sports custom roadster and even shaft driven touring forms over many years the 6
- Development of the four stroke range 6
- Europe got the benefit of suzuki s two stroke expertise in a succession of air cooled twins the six speed 250 cc super six being the most memorable but the arrival in 1968 of the first of a series of 500 cc twins which w e good looking robust and versatile marked the start of mainstream success so confident were suzuki of their two stroke expertise that they even applied it to the burgeoning superbike sector the gt750 water cooled triple arrived in 1972 it was big fast and comfortable although the handling and stopping power did draw some comment whatever u ie drawbacks of the road bike the engine was1mmensely successful in superblke and formula 750 racing the roadst8 has its devotees ttiough and is now a sought after bike on the classic japanese scene do not refer to it as the water buffalo in such company joking aside the later disc braked velslons were quite civllised but the audacious idea of using a big two stroke motor in what was essentially a touring bike was a surprising succe 6
- Introduction 0 6
- Introduction 7
- Acknowledgements 8
- Introduction 0 8
- The gs500e twin 8
- Electricity 9
- Safety first 9
- The battery 9
- Buying spare parts 10
- Component can be made along the trail from the manufacturer to the parts shelf th e are nu ou8places that the can end up with the wrong number or be listed incorrectly the two places to purchase new parts for your motorcycle theacoessory store and the franchised dealer differ in the type of parts they carry while dealers can obtain virtually every part for your motorcycle the accessory dealer is usually limited to normal high wear items such as shock absorbers tune up parts various engine gaskets cables chains 10
- Frame and engine numbers uk models us models 10
- Identification numbers 10
- Kept in a handy place such as with your driver s licence so they are always available when purchasing or ordering parts for your machine 10
- Outlet have major suspension components cylinders transmission or cases used parts can be obtained for roughly half the of new ones but you can t always be sure of what you re getting once again take 10
- Pads etc rarely will an accessory 10
- Whether buying new used or rebuilt parts the best course is to deal directly with someone who speclallses in parts for your particular make 10
- Battery electrolyte level 11
- Caution do not run the engine in an 11
- Daily pre ride checks 11
- Enclosed pace such as a garage 11
- Engine transmission 11
- If the battery electrolyte level needs 11
- If you have to add oil frequently you 11
- Check that the diaphragm is correctly folded before installing the cover 12
- Check that the drive chain slack isn t excessive if it requires adjustment refer to chapter 1 12
- Check that the front and rear suspension operates smoothly without binding check that the suspension is adjusted as required 12
- Check that the steering moves smoothly from lock to iock 12
- Dot 4 hydraulic fluid until the level is above the lower mark take care to avoid spills see 12
- Ensure that the diaphragm is correctly seated before installing the plate and cover 12
- Handlebars until the top of 12
- If the level is below the lower level mark remove the two screws arrows to free the front brake fluid resei voir cover plate and diaphragm 12
- Painted surfaces so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it and cover sunounding surfaces with rag do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time as it absorbs moisture from the air which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness 12
- Stand and turn the 12
- The front brake fluid level is checked via the sightglass in the reselvoir it must be above the lower level mark arrow 12
- Top up with new clean 12
- Warning above 12
- Daily pre ride checks 13
- Legal and safety checks 13
- Bo t8 u d 14
- Ch 1 routine maint servicing 14
- Chapter 1 14
- Contents 14
- Engine cyi t as8ic check 0 14
- Engine valve clearances cold engi1e intake n aj8t spark plugs type 14
- H88d11ght almchecknad 14
- Kjlespeed 14
- Ngheadb wig 1ubicati steering head freepiay check and 1 8 suspension check 20 throttienchokec8 18 check 24 valve check and adj fnent os wheelbeeringl check 14
- Rear suspension bearing lubrication 33 pkags gapchecknad l81ment 8 pkags replacement 19 14
- Routine maintenance and servicing 14
- Mainten 15
- Maintenance 15
- Servicing 15
- Maintenance schedule 16
- 4 m ai ntenance 17
- Every 2000 miles 3000 km 18
- Every 600 miles 1000 km 18
- Maintenance servlcln 18
- Uction ntrod 18
- Every 4000 miles 6000 km or 12 months 19
- Miles 6000 km or 12 months 1 7 20
- A pair of pliers 21
- Every 4000 miles 6000 km or 12 months 21
- Iilustr8t1on 21
- Iliu8tr8tions 21
- Obtain and install the replacement shim noting that its size marking should be installed downwards and that the shim should be 21
- Remove the tool from the follower rotate the crankshaft several turns to seat the new shim check the clearance again then repeat the process for any other valves until the ct 8nce8 are correct 14 install all disturbed components in a r8o wse of the rwnovai 8ecjibnce 21
- Stamped on its face iilu8tr8tion 21
- Km or 12 months 1 9 22
- Miles 6000 22
- Every 4000 miles 6000 km or 12 months 23
- 66 33 66 24
- Accept 24
- Adjust the idle speed 24
- Antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain in the uk call this number free to find the location of your local oil recycling bank 24
- By turning the throttle stop screw in or out until the idle speed listed in this chapter s specifications is obtained the throttle stop screw is located under the right hand carburettor see iilu8b ation 4 snap the throttle open and shut a few times then recheck the idle speed if necessary repeat the adjustment procedure s if a smooth steady idle can t be achieved the fuevair mlxtll e may be incorrect refer to chapter 3 for additional information on adjusting the carburettors 24
- Correct also 24
- D then fit the cover 24
- Fitter 24
- Freeplay is 24
- Idle speed check 24
- In the usa note that any oil supplier must accept used oil for recycling 24
- Install the new filter see illustration 24
- Note it is 24
- Throttle cable freepiay 24
- Tighten its nuts securely 24
- 8 lever end 25
- Adjust the chain adjustw g nuts on the end of each side of the swingarm evenly until the amount of freeplay specified at the beginning 25
- Adjustment 25
- Chapter s specifications illustration 1h8 ch8jn will rarely we evenly rotate the rear wheel so that another section of chain can be checked do this severa times to check the entire length of chain in some cases where lubrication has been neglected or the chain s o rings have failed corrosion and galling may cause the links to bind and kink effectively the ch81 siength if the chain is tight between the sprockets rusty or kinked or if any of the 8r8 loose or the rogers damaged it s time to replace it with a new one if you find a tight area it with felt pen or paint and repeat the lt1888urmw1t after the bike has been ridden if the chawl s stil tight in the s8ne area it may be damaged or wom because a tight or kinked chain can damage the tran8mis8k n output shaft it s a good idee to replace it 25
- Freepiay check 25
- If the has been en up at the 25
- Lockring a 25
- Periodic adjustment of the clutch cable is necessary to compensate for cable stretch check that the amount of freeplay at the clutch lever end is within the specifications listed at the beginning of the chapter 8ee iiu8tr8tion if adjustment is required it can be made at either the lever end of the cable or at the clutch end 2 to adjust cable freeplay at the lever pull back the rubber cover then loosen the locking ring and tum the adjuster in or out until the required amount of freeplay is obtained s iiiu8tr8tfon to increase frmplay tum the adjuster clockwise to reduce freeplay turn the adjuster antl cioci wi88 tlghtm the ring 88clreiy 3 to adjust cable freeplay at the clutch pull up the nk coy on the top of the engine sprocket cover then loosen the locknut and t m the adjust the requred amount of freepjay is obtained see illustration to incr freeplay t1 m the ad er clockwise to reduce freeplay turn the adjuster antl clockwise tighten the locknut securely 25
- Rotate the rear wheel until the chain is positioned with the tightest point at the centre of its bottom run then place the machine on its 8ide8t81d 5 on us models remove the split pin from the rew axle nut then on all models slacken 25
- Set i1 fie s od 8t oovw it is to 25
- Slacken the axle nut 25
- Sprockets 25
- Miles 6000 km 26
- Or 12 months 26
- Then adjust the chain by turning the adjuster nuts 26
- Every 4000 miles 6000 km 27
- Or 12 months 27
- Adjust the bearings using a drift located into one of the 28
- Adjustment 28
- Although not essential it is wise to remove the fuel tank to avoid the possibility of damage should a tool slip while adjustment is being made see chapter 3 slacken the steering stem bolt then slacken the 28
- B and each fork clamp bolt arrow 28
- Caution take great care not to apply 28
- Clamp bolts in the top yoke see illustrations 6 using a suitable drift located in one of the notches in the adjuster ring slacken the adjuster ring slightly by tapping the drift with a hammer until pressure is just released then tighten it until all freeplay in the forks is removed yet the steering is able to move freely from side to side see illustration the 28
- Every 4000 miles 6000 km or 12 months 28
- Forb if play is felt in the bearings adjust object is to set the adjuster ring so that the loosen fasteners all nuts bolts screws etc should be periodically checked for proper tightness 2 pay particular attention to the following spark plugs 28
- Notches in the adjuster ring 28
- Since vibration 28
- C 1 j i prescribed interval or whenever a master 29
- Cylinder or caliper overhaul is carried out 29
- Every 7500 miles 12 29
- Inspect the re8 shock for fkjld leakage 81d tightness of its mountings if leakage is found the shock should be replaced see chapter 5 8 with the aid of an asalst81t to support the bike compress the rear suspension several times it should move up and down freely without binding if any binding is felt the worn 29
- J pt ti c 1 i refer to the brake bleeding section in 29
- Jj c c y chapter 6 noting that all old fluid must 29
- M 8 attempt to move the awlngenn from 8ide to 8ide 29
- M b feel for up end down 29
- Or faulty component must be identified and replaced the problem could be due to either the shock 8b8orber the 8u linkage components or the ewingarm components 7 poiition the motorcycle on its centre stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground grab the swlngarm and rock it from side to aide there should be no discernible at the rear he illustration if there s a little movement or a slight clicking can be heerd h ispect the tlg of all the mounting b xt8 and nuts referring to the settings specified at the beglmlng of the chapter and re check for movement next grasp the top of the rear wheel and pun it upwards 29
- Play in the 29
- R noy8 the okj pkjgs 88 2 8 in sectioo 6 and install new ones 29
- Remove the old air filter as described in section 2 and install a new one 29
- Remove the rear wheel 29
- Smoothly without binding if bindng is felt the forks be dis8888mbled and inspected see chapter 5 3 inspect the above the dust see for oil leakage then carefully lever the dust seal upwards using a flat bladed screwdriver and inspect the area around the fork seal see iiiu8tr8tlons if leakage is evident the seals must be replaced see chapter 5 4 check the tightness of all susp lon nuts and bolts to be sln none have worked loose 29
- Swingarm bearings 29
- The brake fluid should be replaced at the line before filling with new oot 4 fluid 29
- The suspension components must be maintained in top operating condition to re rider safety loose worn or suspension parts decrease the motorcycle s 29
- Thwe should be no discernible freeplay before the shock absorber begins to compress 8m inustratlon any freepiay felt in either check indicates worn bearings in the suspension linkage x swlngarm or worn shock absorber mountings the worn 29
- While standing alongside the motorcycle apply the front brake and push on the handlebars to compress the forks several times see if they move up and down 29
- Every 4 year 30
- Every 4 years 30
- Non scheduled maintenance 30
- Extra precautions when you 31
- Non scheduled maintenance 31
- Accelerated rate note one of the best 32
- Cables 32
- Non scheduled maintenance 32
- Pivot points 32
- Non scheduled maintenance 33
- Arrowt 34
- Checking the oil 34
- Gressing 34
- Non scheduled maintenance 34
- Note an oil pressure check is essentj8l if the oil pressure warning light indicates a problem but can be carried out as a routine check of the lubrication system 1 to check the oil pr 8ssure a suitable gauge and adapter piece which screws into the crankcase will be needed suzuki provide a kit pt nos 09915 74510 and 09915 77330 for tt1is purpose 2 warm the engine up to normal operating temperature then stop it 3 unscrew the plug from the bottom of tt1e right hand crankcase cover and swiftly screw the adapter into the crankcase threads see 1ii ntion comect the gauge to tt1e adapter 4 start the engine and increase the engine speed to 3000 rpm whilst watching the gauge 34
- Note brake seals will deteriorate over 8 period of time leading to sticking operation or leakage 1 refer to chapter 6 and dismantle the components for seal replacement 34
- Reading the oil pressure should be similar to that given in the specifications at the start of this chapter 5 if the pressure is significantly lower than the standard either the pressure regulator is stuck open the 011 pump is faulty the oil strainer is blocked or there is other engine damage begin diagnosis by 34
- Strainer and regulator then the oil ptmp see chapter 2 if those items check out okay chances are the bearing oil clearances are excessive and the engine needs to be 34
- Valves incorrect valve clearances a leaking head gasket or worn pistons rings and or cylinder walls a cylinder compression check will help pinpoint these conditions and can also indicate the presence of excessive carboo deposits in the cylinder heads 2 make sure the valve clearances are correctly set see section 5 and that the cylinder head nuts are tightened to the correct torque setting see section 4 3 refer to fault finding equipment in the reference section for details of the compression test 34
- Ch 2 engine clutch transmission 36
- Er9 i8 36
- Gener8 i1fonnation 6 36
- Ii a a p 36
- Inepecta1 n 1nst8 8 36
- Main and connecting rod b88rings note 28 36
- Maj nerepei gener8note 36
- Ouandfilterct18 1g8 a 1 36
- Piston 36
- V txscpa tv 36
- Va1v va y8 8e8t8 v8 ye g jd8s seryick1g 12 36
- Outerspring 37
- Service limit max 37
- Engine clutch and transmission 2 38
- Pistons 38
- Topring max 38
- 1 1 1 1 39
- 4 engine clutch and transmission 39
- Big end width 22 5to23 0mm crankpinwidth 23 0to23 5mm crankpindiameter 33 76to34 00mm big end oil clearance standard o 24too 48mm 39
- Cannshaft journal cap bolts 39
- Clutch 39
- Connecting rods continued 39
- Crankcase bolts 39
- Drum and forks 39
- Input shaft length see text 39
- Lubrication system 11 pressure see chapter 1 39
- Mm bolts 39
- Oil pressure regulator 39
- Plain plate 39
- Prlmaryreductlon 39
- Quantity 39
- Rearcamchajnguidebolts 39
- Selector 39
- Selector fort end thickness 39
- Settings 39
- Springfreelength min 39
- Standard 39
- Stgear 39
- To 2 61 to 1 77 to 1 80 to 1 25to 0 61 to 0 51 to 2 37 to 114 to 39
- To 5 mm 39
- To12nm 39
- To20nm 39
- To6nm 8to12nm 39
- Torque 39
- Transmission 39
- A complete tune up does not help major 40
- Engine clutch and transmission 2 5 40
- Valves 40
- 6 engine clutch and transmission 41
- A unscrew the front engine 41
- Bolt nuts 41
- Engine removal 18 trace the neutral switch wiring back from the top of the sprocket cover and disconnect it at its connector release the wiring from any clips or ties noting its routing and coil it on top of the crankcase so that it does not impede engine removal 17 at this point position an hydraulic or mechanical jack under the engine with a block of wood between the jack head and sump oil 41
- Pull back the rubber cover arrow and disconnect the starter motor lead from its terminal on the relay 41
- Secured by two bolts at the rear arrows 41
- Clutch and transmission 2 7 42
- Engine 42
- Installation 42
- Secui81y fr j 42
- Slxlrtspecers oo end 42
- 8 engine clutch and transmission 43
- An engine support stand made from short lengths of 2 x 4 inch wood bolted together into a rectangle will help support the engine see illustr8tion the perimeter of the mount should be just big enough to accommodate the sump 011 pan within it so that the engine rests on its crankcase s when disassembling the engine keep mated parts together including gears cylinders pistons connecting rods valves etc that have been in contact with each other during engine operation these mated parts must be reused or replaced as an assembly 8 engine transmission disassembly should be done in the following general order with reference to the appropriate sections remove the valve covers remove the camchain f8nsioner and camcha n guide blades removethecamshafls remo the cylinder head remo 18 the cyilnder block remo the pistons remo the ignition rotor and pulse generator coil assembly see chapter 4 remove the clutch remove the 0 1 pump remo the gearch8nge mechanism 43
- Disassembly 43
- Disassembly sequence 43
- In the flame the engine has been 43
- Is accomplished by reversing 43
- Reassembly 43
- Removal 43
- Remove 43
- The risk of fire 43
- The seat and the sid panels see chapter 7 and disconnect the battery negative ve lead 2 remove the fuel tank see chapter 3 3 release the clamp securing the breather hose to the breather cover on the top of the valve cover and detach the hose a illustration also release the choke cable from its clamp on the breather cover 4 disconnect the spark plug leads from the plugs and secure them clear of the engine s remove the cap earty models from each of the six valve cover bolts then unscrew the bolts and remove them along with their rubber o rings see illustration discard the o rings as new ones must be used on 43
- And transmission 2 9 44
- Engine clutch 44
- Installation 44
- T isioo8r not u8iy 44
- 10 engine clutch and transmission 45
- Camch ln guide bl removal 45
- Fit the plug into the tensioner cap 45
- Installation 18 apply a suitable non permanent thread 45
- Camchain tensioner blade removal 46
- Engine clutch and transmission 2 11 46
- 12 engine clutch and transmission 47
- Disturbing the camshaft journal 47
- Remova 47
- Engine clutch and transmission 48
- Bend up each tab on the lockplate arrow to secure the bolts 49
- Engine clutch and transmission 49
- Except in cases of oil 49
- Fit the shim onto the left hand end of the camshaft 49
- Install the exhaust camshaft 49
- Starvation the if the chain has section 9 for 49
- Stretched excessively see 49
- A install the journal cap dowels if removed 50
- Before proceeding further check that 50
- By the journal caps 50
- Caution 50
- Engine clutch and transmission 2 5 50
- Everything aligns 50
- Identlfk ation me illusb 8tion 11 68 slacken 50
- Illustration 50
- Procedure or the 50
- Removal 50
- Remove the carburett see chapter 3 3 remove the spark plugs see chapter 1 4 remove the camshafts see section 10 5 the cylinder head has eight 1 0 mm domed nuts and one 6 mm bolt unscrew the bolt on the front of the cylinder head me ilkisb ation the eight domed nuts are numbered for 50
- Replaced check the valve clearances see chapter 1 33 install the pulse generator coil cover onto the right hand crankcase cover and tighten its screws securely see hlustration 34 install the valve cover see section 7 35 check the engine oil level and top up if 50
- The engine 50
- Unscrew the cylinder head front bolt arrow 50
- A fit the new cylinder head 51
- B making sure the up mark arrow reads correctly 51
- Carefully lower the cylinder head over the studs and onto the block see illustration it is helpful to have an assistant to pass the camchain up through the tunnel and slip a piece of wire through it to prevent it falling back into the engine keep the chain taut to prevent it becoming disengaged from the crankshaft sprocket 15 install the eight domed nuts using new washers and tighten them finger tight illustrations 51
- Fit a new o ring onto each cylinder hea d stud and press it into its recess in the top of the cylinder block see illustration check that they are properly seated 13 ensure the cylinder head and block mating surfaces are clean then lay the new head gasket in place on the cylinder block making sure all the holes are correctly aligned and that the up letters stamped out of the gasket read the correct way round he illustrations never re use the old gasket 51
- Gasket 51
- Installation 51
- See illustration 11 51
- The nuts evenly and a little at a time in a 51
- Valves valveo8e8ts valve 13 cyjinderhaad and valves 52
- Yi inspection and i 52
- 2 3 4 5 53
- As the head material is soft and may be 53
- Beginning of the chapter check the head gasket mating surface for warpage lay the straightedge lengthways across the head and diagonally rt jng the stud holes and try 53
- Collets 53
- Compressor 53
- Di biy 53
- Dry them thoroughly do the parts from one valve at a time so that no mixing of parts between valves occurs 10 scrape off any deposita that may have fanned on the valve then use a motoriaed wire brush to remove deposita from the valve heads and sterns again mme swe the valves do not get mixed up 53
- Engine clutch and transmission 53
- Heed is warped and must be 53
- Inspect the head very carefumy for cracks and other damage if cracks 81 8 bm a he8d will be red cha the cern bearing surfaces for wear and evidence of seizure check the cam8hafts and followers for wear as well see s ctk n 10 12 using a precision atralgh1edge and a feeler gauge which corresponds to the 53
- Inspection 53
- Lay a precision straightedge acron the cylinder head and try to slide a feeler gauge of the speclflad thickness equal to the maximum allowable warpage under it 53
- Retainers and spring seats with solvent and 53
- Siwn follower coseci spring apting 53
- Clutch and transmission 2 19 54
- Ends if the valve tem or guide is worn 54
- Engine 54
- Specifications 54
- 20 engine clutch and transmission 55
- And seats 55
- Removal 55
- Engine clutch and transmission 56
- Installation 56
- 22 engine clutch and transmission 57
- Bore block is if neceaary use 57
- C h ic 57
- Inspection 57
- Remova 57
- And transmission 2 23 58
- D and the internal diameter of the connecting rod small end 58
- Engine clutch 58
- Always use new circlips to secure the piston pin 59
- Engine clutch and transmission 59
- Inspect and install 59
- Installation 59
- Chrome plated 60
- Engine clutch and transmission 2 25 60
- Facing up i 60
- Greater than 0 mm again double check to mekeltn havethecx rwctrw1g8byol6 qne 81d check that the bore is not worn e repeat the procedure for eech ring that wnl be wi the r61t_t to keep the rings pistons n cyiioo matd1ed up t once the ring end gape have been checked ccwrected h rings c81 be ied on the pistons 10 the oil control ring iow t on h oo is installed first it is composed of three separate components namely the expander and the upper and lower side rails slip the expander into the groove then install the upper side rail do not use a piston ring installation tool on the 011 ring side rails as they may be damaged instead place one end of the side rail into the groove between the expand and the ring land hold it firmly in place and slide a finger around the piston while pushing the rail into the groove next 60
- Illusti 8uon 1ub 14 once the rings are correctly installed check they move freely wittnjt snagging and stagger their end gaps as shown see 60
- Install 60
- Letter n near the end gap is facing up 60
- Make sure 60
- Niddle 60
- Note the clutch can be removed with the engine in the frame 60
- Ob and fit 60
- Remova 1 the engine oil r8f8 to 1 2 unscrew the tiyee boits tt1e circular pulse generator assembly coy to the 60
- The identification 60
- Clutch housing 19 pu8hrods 61
- Engine clutch and transmission 61
- Pls n plates 15 pin 20 pushrod oil s8 i 10 clutch nut 16 on pump drfvegesr 2 1 retainer piete 11 locicwasher 17 cftdfp 22 r 12 clutch centre 61
- Pressure plate bolt 2 spacer 61
- Pushrod end piece 13 outer throstwssher 18 inner throstwaher 8 friction plates 61
- The crankcase cover is secured by thirteen bolts arrows note the positions of the wiring clips on three of the bolts a 61
- Thnist washer 6 r8 88se besrlng 61
- An extended period of service the clutch friction plates will wear and promote 62
- Engine clutch and transmission 2 7 62
- Inspection 62
- Locates 62
- See illustration 62
- Thrust 62
- Washer 62
- And secure it with the clrclip 17 8c 63
- B withdraw the left hand pushrod arrow and check it for straightness 63
- Engine clutch and transmission 63
- Gear changes since the plates will snag when the pressure plate is lifted with care a small amount of wear can be corrected by dressing with a fine file but if this is excessive the worn components should be replaced 15 check the pressure plate release bearing push rod end piece and thrust washer for signs of roughness wear or damage and replace any parts as necessary check that the right hand pushrod is straight by rolling it on a flat surface 16 unscrew the gearchange lever pinch bolt and remove the lever from the shaft noting any alignment marks on the lever and the shaft see illustration 18 a if no marks are visible make your own before removing the lever so that it can be correctly aligned with the shaft on installation unscrew the bolts securing the engine sprocket cover to the crankcase and draw the cover away from the engine see illustration 18 b note the position of the dowel and remove it if it is loose check the clutch release actuating mechanism for smooth operation and any 63
- Primary drive gear 63
- Pushrod 63
- See illustrations 63
- Shows signs 63
- A slide the inner thrust washer onto the shaft 64
- Build up the clutch plates in the 64
- Coat each plate with clean engine 64
- Engine clutch and transmission 64
- Installation the shaft 64
- Iockwasher to ure 64
- Oc s8lde lockwasher onto the shaft 64
- Splines see illustretions fit a new 64
- With a friction plate then a plain 64
- 30 engine clutch and transmission 65
- Assembly cover 66
- B then install a new seal 66
- Clutch and transmission 2 31 66
- D install the crankcase cover 17 68 locate the rotor slot a 66
- Engine 66
- Install the rotor bolt 66
- See illustration 66
- See illustration connect 66
- Socket see illustrations 66
- The oil seal 66
- Pub 4 nl eu 6u3 l l 67
- Engine clutch and transmission 2 33 68
- Illustration 68
- Inspection 68
- Installation 68
- Oil pump 68
- Pump is secured to the crankcase by three screws c 68
- Removal 68
- Removal inspection and installation 68
- Remove 68
- Remove the clutch 68
- Securing the 68
- See section 68
- 34 engine clutch and transmission 69
- Note how the gearchange selector arm claw fits onto the change pins in the selector drum and how the gearchange shaft centralising spring ends fit on each side of the locating pin then move the selector arm claw down off the change pins and withdraw the gearchange shaft from the engine see illustration 5 if necessary unscrew the screw securing the change pin holder plate to the selector 69
- See section 17 gearchange lever pinch bolt andrermve the lever from the shaft note any punch marks on the arm and the shaft which 69
- And transmission 2 35 70
- Engine clutch 70
- Spring 70
- 36 engine clutch and transmission 71
- From the top of the engim sprocket 00y8 and disconnect it at the connectors release the wiring from any clips or ties 2 unscrew the gearchange lever pinch bolt and remove the lever from the shaft noting any alignment marks on the lever and the shaft 8m liu8tr8tlon 18 8 if no marks are visible make your own before removing the lever so that it can be correctly aligned with the shaft on installation unscrew the bolts securing the engine sprocket cover to the crankcase and move the cover aside see uohi 18 bt there is no need to detach the clutch cable from the cover reieese the alternator wiring from the clamp next to the 71
- Note the starter clutch 71
- O 1c the 71
- A install the idle reduction 72
- A make sure the dowel arrow is installed then fit a new gasket 72
- And springs for signs of deformation or damage see illustration make sure the plungers move freely in their sockets 8 check that the three allen bolts securing the starter clutch to the rotor are tight s illustration 21 b if any are loose unscrew all the bolts then apply a suitable non permanent thread locking compound to their threads and tighten them to the specified torque setting lubricate the starter clutch rollers with new engine oil 9 examine the teeth of the starter idle reduction gear and the corresponding teeth of the starter driven gear and starter motor drive shaft replace the gears and or starter motor if worn or chipped teeth are discovered on related gears 72
- B and the rollers in the clutch 72
- Check the condition of the starter driven gear hub 72
- Correctly 72
- Illustrations tighten the cover 72
- Installation 10 lubricate the hub of the starter driven gear with clean engine oil then install the 72
- Not the sump 011 pan and sttainer can be removed with the engine in the frame work is being carried out with the engine removed ignore the preliminary steps to remo the oil 72
- Pressure regulator the engine must be removed from the frame and the crankcases separated sump oil pan and oil strainer 72
- Removal 72
- Removal and installation 72
- Remove the exhaust system chapter 3 2 drain the engine oil see chapter 1 3 unscrew the sump oil pan bolts slackening them evenly in a criss cross sequence to prevent distortion see illustration remove 72
- Remove the rollers and check the plungers and springs 72
- See illustrations 72
- Starter 72
- Sump oil pan oil strainer and oil pressure regulator 72
- 011 pressure regulator location 73
- Arrow on the strainer points to 73
- Engine clutch and transmission 73
- Fill the engine with the correct type and beginning of the chapter 73
- Inspection 13 check that the pressure regulator plunger 73
- Inspection 5 make sure the oil strainer is clean and remove any debris caught in the mesh inspect the strainer for any signs of wear or damage and replace it if necessary installation 6 install the oil strainer onto the underside of the crankcase making sure the arrow points to the front of the engine and tighten its bolts securely see illustration 7 remove all traces of gasket from the sump oil pan and crankcase mating surfaces then lay a new gasket onto the sump oil pan if the engine is in the frame or onto the crankcase if the engine has been removed and is positioned upside down on the work surface 73
- Make sure the 73
- Oil pressure regulator removal 73
- Quantity of oil as described in chapter 1 start the engine and check for leaks around the sump oil pan 73
- See illustration make sure the holes in the moves freely in the plunger body and inspect gasket align correctly with the oil passages it for signs of wear or damage replace the 8 position the sump oil pan onto the regulator and its washer if necessary crankcase and install the bolts and tighten installation 73
- Separate the crankcase halves see section 23 12 unscrew the oil pressure regulator from the lower crankcase half and remove it with its washer see illustration 73
- Strainer is secured by three bolts arrows 73
- The front of the engine 73
- The oil 73
- The sump oil pan and its gasket discard the gasket as a new one must be used 4 unscrew the three bolts securing the oil strainer to the underside of the crankcase noting the arrow on the strainer which must point forwards see illustration 73
- Them evenly in a criss cross pattern to the t t 73
- Then install the sump oil pan 73
- Clutch and transmission 2 39 74
- Engine clutch and transmission 75
- A cylinder oil jet location 76
- After the crankcases have been separated remove the crankshaft balancer shaft camchain tensioner blade oil pressure regulator neutral switch and transmission components referring to the relevant sections of this chapter and to chapter 8 for the neutral switch remove the cylinder oil jet from the side of each cylinder hole in the top of the upper crankcase half and check the condition of their o rings replacing them 76
- All traces of old gasket sealant should be removed from the mating surfaces minor damage to the surfaces can be cleaned up with a fine sharpening stone or grindstone caution be very careful not to nick or gouge the crankcase mating surfaces or oll 76
- And the transmission 76
- B and bend up the tabs 76
- B applying a thread locking 76
- B balancer shaft oil jet locations arrows 76
- Between 76
- Clutch 76
- Compound 76
- Crankcase inspection and servicing 76
- Do not forget the single upper 76
- Engine clutch and transmission 76
- Illustration 76
- Install the output shaft 76
- Necessary see illustration also remove the balancer 76
- Should be blown out with compressed air 76
- The crankcases should be cleaned thoroughly with new solvent and dried with compressed air all 011 passages and oil jets 76
- To its screws 76
- Also remove the 77
- Crankcase 77
- Cylinder head studs are 77
- Deflector 77
- Dowel the middle selector fork engages correctly in its groove in the 3rd 4th gear 77
- End and 77
- Found that can t 77
- Leaks will result check both crankcase 77
- Plates into their correct locations see 77
- Sections 77
- Engine clutch and transmission 2 3 78
- Cracks 79
- Engine clutch and transmission 79
- Followed by the 5th gear bush 6 the 1 5t gear pinion is integral with the shaft 79
- Further 79
- Iih dtpati 79
- Inspect 79
- Pinion then slide the thrust washer and the pinion off the 79
- Undue fr piay 79
- Using a puller to remove the 26 38 use a puller to remove the 2nd gear pinion bearing 79
- Weakened or worn 79
- C the thrust washer 80
- D and thecirclip 80
- Engine clutch and transmission 80
- Followed by the 6th 80
- Locates correctly 80
- 46 engine clutch and transmission 81
- A pinion turns 81
- And dry them off are any cracks 81
- Check the gear teeth for cracking 33 check the ball bearing for play or 81
- Inspection 81
- Moves freely on the shaft 00t without undue 81
- On it and replace the 81
- Output shaft a 81
- Pinion arxj the spiined washer 81
- Solvent 81
- Wash all of the 81
- Engine clutch and transmission 2 7 82
- Reassembly 82
- Engine clutch and transmission 83
- Removal 83
- Selector drum and forks 83
- Engine clutch and transmission 2 49 84
- Inspection 84
- And the right 85
- Crankcase see illustration 85
- Engine clutch and transmission 85
- Spring 85
- Tighten 85
- Aln an con i ng ro also recommended bearings general information 86
- Connecting or 86
- Cran kshaft and mal n 86
- Engine clutch and transmission 2 51 86
- Remove 86
- Bearing shell selection 87
- Biact brown 87
- Bid brown y eiiow 87
- Engine clutch and transmission 87
- If damaged or 87
- Oil clearance check 87
- Place the crankshaft on v blocks and 87
- Select 87
- The primary drive 87
- Vo1jf t 4 87
- Crankshaft into position in the upper crankcase 88
- Engine clutch and transmission 2 53 88
- Install the thrust bearings into 88
- Installation 88
- Lubricate the shells generously 88
- On the outside of each inner 88
- Reassemble the crankcase halves see 88
- 54 engine clutch and transmission 89
- Removal 89
- As the spacer acts 90
- At number 12 and working backwards faces out and the key locates in its slot 8 each section are aligned arrows 90
- Engine clutch and transmission 2 5 90
- Illustration 90
- Washer 90
- Engine clutch and transmission 91
- Inspection 91
- See illustrations 91
- Tration measure 91
- Bearing 92
- Engine clutch and transmission 2 7 92
- Shell selection 92
- Engine clutch and transmission 93
- I i i e se _ t o1 kin p _ 93
- Km 5 cxxjrpmmax viry 93
- 6u u o pub uonejedes 94
- Akj ioj 94
- Ch 3 fuel exhaust systems 94
- El olld sez s ler 94
- I 4 ees 94
- J elpe9n 94
- J8 6 wnw u w pepeelun 94
- Ja ldell 94
- Osw 9 l swn l 94
- Pllla m 94
- Powelwoj le 94
- S 8pow sn 94
- S 8powsn 94
- S u8w snrpe jou9jnqjeo 94
- Stuatuo 94
- Swa sas sne4xa pue lan l 94
- Uonbwjojuiibj9ue6 94
- Uonell su pub lea0uj8j sjou8jnqje 94
- Ww 9 ww ww 94
- N8888oeu 96
- S9s04 94j pue qg 96
- Swe sas sne4xe pue len 96
- 1 u ew 8 i p8 uewsip eq tau plno s pue j8t u e4t jo 97
- 9w8j e4 o ue 94 jo je8j 84 97
- Del 18n 810w811 97
- E 09 10 otl 97
- Ea 94j iind q z 97
- Eq 9lfj uo 97
- Eq e4 uo uo un 97
- Ese91ej s9s04 19nj e4 wojj moij ii m lenj lenp s9j jo unowe liews e e4 pu w u 6uijeeg i 97
- Euuo s p ue4 l je de4 ees sl8ued 8p s 84 pug e8s 84 9aowe l i uo sod no 9li 0 pewm si de le j 9 8jns 9 e 91 97
- Ibaow9h 97
- Jf oo isnj u bw 97
- L j8tde4 e8s siaued ap s a t pue teas a lietsui 1 1 97
- Leaoweh 97
- Ljlllnd pue sdwel 9ir ese8t9tt e g 97
- Lue e4 o p9jn 8s s 1 0 lenj 9 ll bt i 97
- Lue1ien e t a owa i 97
- Luet 9 lietsui 6 97
- O1 j 841 6u ou 97
- Oq 916uis e aq p9jn es s de 8tu re 97
- Pug 9ul6ua 8 t tjets uo t sod s3 jo no 94t 97
- S p8pelq el e 6u sn pus je9j 8 e ue 94 9s e 61 97
- Smojje smaj o q 97
- Suo un j 8lji uo s8s0ljl8nj 98jlji 97
- Tuel 911 wojj mejpii m pub 97
- U det lan 9towaj a t 4t m lsel leuiwjet 8 9 te6eu 94t 6u u j l jaueq 94 t 9uuo 01 97
- Uo ejooo de h lnej wj juo o st lds jo s9104 joj peulwex9 9q ue de 97
- Uo w94 iind pue de 19nj e4 uo suo un 97
- G sw9tsi s tsnb4xe pub len 98
- Sjo ejnqjeo 9 99
- 841 mbjp41 m s l 101
- B4 e ou nq 101
- E tel toi d v tel u ew s l 101
- Epln6 uo s d e4 peaowej ei uibw 94 4t m 8 101
- I iqwasseelpeeu 101
- Jo ajnqje 941 wojj j qwesse uois d pue w6ej4de p 941 mejp4t m t l 101
- S p pub te jse6 jeqqnj e4t ehow9 uoi j nlll ees 101
- S p pus 6uij o e4t ehowe uo 84snll s st j t mo4 6u tou 101
- Sw8tsas tsns4xe pus len 104
- E e swe s s sne4x8 pub 18n l 106
- Uoij u 106
- 8j8 seso4 941 lie 8jns 9 jvw l8i owej 10 8sj9i 8j 841 sf uoiibii81sui 9 107
- Eseel9 t 107
- Ew84 10 1 0 6ufsn04 8janeouew s i 107
- Ib low9h 107
- J8 y jiv 107
- Qz g uopaq8nil uo un st wojj 94 107
- S e fx3 t 107
- Sun we sas 9 6uiijoddns 107
- Swe sj s snb4xe pub isn j 17 107
- T p o peeu ou 81 8jetu 107
- U8l1s e e j8d s o lq ssod ou s alqwess8 e ldwo 8 58 pel owej eq ejoj je snw pu8 u6isep o d euo 8 si we s s 8 xe atu 107
- Ue ino bu ue3 ejoj8q 1003 107
- Uo ii uol 5ufsno4 uo 8u d o 941 uee eq pus dol 107
- Uo jbllelsui 107
- Uoii8 q8 ii 107
- Uonelle u pue ler ow j 107
- All models are fitted with a fully transistorlsed electronic ignition system which due to its lack of mechanical 110
- At idle california models all other models full advance 110
- Btdc 1 btdc 400 btdc 0 4 xx rpm 110
- Ch 4 ignition system 110
- Chapter 4 110
- Check removal and installation 3 110
- Check removal and installation 4 110
- Check removal and installation 5 110
- Contents 110
- General 110
- General information 110
- General information and check 6 110
- I 9 n ition syste 110
- Ignition be switched on whilst the plugs or plug caps are being held shocks from the ht circuit can be most unpleasant secondly it is vital that the engine is not turned over or run with either of the plug caps removed and that the plugs are soundly earthed grounded 110
- Ignition ht coils 110
- Ignition main switch check removal and installation see chapter 8 ignition ht coils 110
- Ignition system 110
- Ignition system check 2 110
- Ignition timing 110
- Information 110
- Is totally maintenance free the system comprises a rotor pulse generator coils ignition control unit and ignition ht coils refer to the wiring diagrams at the end of chapter 8 for details the trigger on the rotor which is fitted to the right hand end of the crankshaft magnetically operates the pulse generator coils as the crankshaft rotates the pulse generator coils send a signal to the ignition control unit which then supplies the ignition ht coils with the power necessary to produce a spark at the plugs 110
- Left alternator side right clutch side see chapter 1 110
- Neutral switch check and replacement see chapter 8 110
- Pulse generator coil assembly 110
- Pulse generator coils 110
- Spark plug gap check and replacement see chapter 1 110
- Specifications 110
- That most electrical parts once purchased cannot be returned to avoid unnecessary expense make very sure the faulty component has been positively identified before buying a replacement part 110
- To 23 nm 110
- To 420 ohms 110
- Warning the energy levels in electronic systems can be very high on no account should the 110
- 2 ignition system 111
- Atomised 111
- Eriously amaged the ht circuit 111
- Perform this check 111
- System 111
- Removal 112
- Ignition 114
- Ignition system 4 5 114
- Iilusb ation 114
- The engine 114
- The rotor timing mark can be h highlighted with white paint i typist s correction fluid is ideal to make it more visible under the stroboscopic light 114
- Then stop it 4 unscrew the three bolts securing the circular pulse generator assembly cover to the right hand side crankcase cover se illustration 4 5 the timing marl on the rotor is an f which indicates the firing point at idle speed for the right hand cylinder s illustration the 114
- B ro il 8 t 116
- Capacity 116
- Ch 5 frame suspension final drive 116
- Chapter 5 116
- Check see chapter 8 handlebar switches removal and installation see chapter 8 116
- F8tyeasy f8iyclnlajt b y8y 116
- For imer with 116
- Fork clamp bolts bottom yoke 116
- Front forks 116
- G bolts suspension linkage rod bolts 116
- Isi exj 8 slce diy rt8 ta1c medww or j j of 116
- Jitabie fcx y 116
- Oo ik e with little 116
- Pens n in earm 116
- Rear sprocket nuts f c 116
- Rear suspension 116
- Removal and installation 116
- Removal and installation 3 forks disassembly inspection and reassembly 7 forkoilchange seechapter1 forks removalandinstallation 6 frame inspectionandrepair 2 general information 1 116
- Removal inspection and installation 10 116
- Rrvn 105 mm 116
- Seechapter1 rearsuspensionlinkage 11 116
- Settings 116
- Steering head bearings inspection and replacement 116
- Steering stem removal and installation 116
- Suspension 116
- Suspension adjustm ts 12 116
- Suspension and final drive 116
- Suspension bearing lubrication m 116
- Swingarm rernovalandinstallation 13 116
- Torque 116
- Ukn p r s tandvmodels 116
- 2 frame suspension and final drive 117
- Footrests and brackets 117
- Footrests removal 117
- Frame inspection and repair 117
- General information 117
- Installation 117
- Removal and installation 117
- Centre stand 118
- Frame suspension and final drive 5 118
- Left hand footrest bracket removal 118
- Sidestand 118
- 4 frame suspension and final drive 119
- B punch mark arrow must align with master cylinder clamp mating surfaces 119
- Complete assembly removal 119
- Handlebar clamp mounting bolts arrows 119
- Handlebar end weight retaining screw 119
- Handlebar left hand handlebar removal 119
- Handlebar noting 119
- Housing 119
- Housing locates 119
- If necessary unscrew the handlebar end weight retaining screw then remove the cap weight and spacer from the end of the handlebar see illustration 5 if you are replacing the grip it may be necessary to slit it using a sharp knife as it is adhered to the handlebar 11 if necessary unscrew the bolts securing the handlebar clamp to the handlebar bracket and remove the clamp see illustration 5 left hand handlebar installation 119
- Inustration 119
- Mating 119
- Note the cutouts arrows 119
- Off the 119
- Retaining screw 119
- Right hand handlebar installation 119
- See inustratlon 119
- Slide the clutch 119
- The clutch lever assembly bracket 119
- The two screws on the underside 119
- Then separate the 119
- Twistgrip see iuustratlon 119
- Frame suspension and final drive 5 5 120
- Removal 120
- Disassembly 121
- Frame suspension and final drive 121
- Installation 121
- Broom handle pressed hard 122
- Suspension and final drive 5 7 122
- 8 frame 123
- New one 123
- Suspension and final drive 123
- Frame suspension and finaj drive 5 11 126
- I stall t o 126
- St8er1 head beanngs 126
- 12 frame suspension and final drive 127
- Installation 127
- Removal 127
- Suspension 127
- 14 frame 129
- Rear shock absorber 129
- Removal 129
- Suspension and final drive 129
- Bearing replacement 130
- Frame suspension and final drive 5 15 130
- Inspection 130
- Any alignment marks on the lever and the 131
- Caution use only the recommended lubricant 131
- Chain which uses a clip type 131
- Cleaning 4 soak the chain in paraffin kerosene for approximately five or six minutes caution don t use petrol gasoline solvent or other cleaning fluids also don t use high pressure water remove the chain wipe it off then blow dry it with compressed air immediately the entire process shouldn t take longer than ten 131
- Cover 3 slip the chain off the front sprocket and remove it from the bike 131
- D inspect u1e needle roller bearings 131
- Engine sprocket cover to the crankcase 131
- Frame suspension and final drive 131
- If it does the o rings in the chain rollers could be damaged 131
- In the swingarm 131
- Installation 131
- Installation is the reverse of removal on completion adjust and lubricate the chain following the procedures described in chapter 131
- Marked side facing outwards 131
- Master spiit link 131
- Minutes 131
- Move it aside see illustration there is no need to detach the clutch cable 131
- Note the original equipment drive chain fitted to all models is an endless chain which means it doesn t have a joining link removal aither requires the removal of the swlngar1n as detailed below or breaking and riveting of the chain 131
- Removal cleaning and installation 131
- Remove the swingarm see section 13 2 unscrew the gearchange lever pinch bolt and remove the lever from the shaft noting 131
- See hlustratlon 14 d 131
- See illustration if no marks are visible make your own before removing the lever so that it can be correctly aligned with the shaft on installation unscrew the bolts securing 131
- Sprockets check and replacement 131
- Warning never install a drive 131
- Frame suspension and final drive 5 7 132
- Wheel coupling 132
- Cations 134
- Ch 6 brakes wheels tyres 134
- Chapter 6 brakes wheels and tyres 134
- Contents 134
- F81yeesy 134
- Generalintormation 1 134
- Oovice with little 134
- Verycft ji 134
- Wheels 134
- Wheels alignment 134
- 2 brakes wheels and tyres 135
- General information 135
- Brakes wheels and tyres 6 3 136
- Brakes wheels and tyres 6 5 138
- Connect the brake 138
- Removal 138
- To the caliper 138
- And tyres 6 7 140
- Brakes wheels 140
- Brakes wheels and tyres 141
- Brakes wheels and lyres 6 9 142
- Inspection 143
- Removal 143
- Brakes wheels and tyres 6 11 144
- Overhaul 144
- Remova 144
- 12 brakes wheels and tyres 145
- Inspection 145
- Installation 145
- Replacement 145
- Alignment check 146
- An easier 146
- Cable retaining screw arrow speedometer 146
- Diaphragm plate front brake and cover wipe up any spilled brake fluid and check the entire system 146
- Front wheel 146
- I pedal the fluid my be aerated let the brake fluid in the system stabillse for a few hours and then t8pe8t the procedure when the tiny bubbles in the system have settled out 146
- Inspection and repair 146
- Inspection of 146
- Misalignment of the wheels which may be due to a cocked rear wheel or a bent frame or fork yokes can cause strange and possibly serious handling problems if the frame or yokes are at fault repair by a frame specialist or replacement with new parts are the only alternatives 2 to check the alignment you will need an assistant a length of string or a perfectly straight piece of wood and a ruler a plumb bob or other suitable weight will also be requi ed 3 in order to make a proper check of the wheels it is necessary to support the bike in an upright position either on its centre stand or on an auxiliary stand measure the width of both tyres at their widest points stbtract the smaller measurement from the larger measurement then divide the d by two the resut is the amount of offset that should exist between the front and rear tyres on both sides 4 if a string is used have your assistant hold one end of it about halfway between the floor and the rear axle touching the rear sidewall of the ty 146
- Njnout is excessive check the wheel bearings 146
- Note if wheel 146
- Position the motorcycle on its centre stand and support it under the crankcase 146
- Removal and installation 146
- Sidewall 146
- String 146
- That the front wheel is off the ground always make sure the motorcycle is properly supported 2 remove the screw securing the speedo meter cable on the left hand side of the wheel hub and detach the cable from its drive unit see illustration 146
- The procedure 146
- The wheels should also be visually inspected for cracks flat spots on the rim and other damage look very closely for dents in the area where the tyre bead contacts the rim dents in this area may prevent complete sealing of the tyre against the rim which leads to deflation of the tyre over a period of time if damage is evident or if runout in either direction is excessive the wheel will have to be replaced with a new one never attempt to repair a damaged cast alloy wheel 146
- Wheels 146
- A install the wheel spacer 147
- Apply a smear of lithium based grease to the inside of the axle spacer and the wheel spacer and also to the inner face of the wheel spacer where it contacts the grease seal 11 manoeuvre the wheel into position apply a thin coat of grease to the axle at the wheel spacer between the wheel and the fork making sure it is the right way round illustration if removed slide the axle spacer into the bottom of the fork see illustration 12 lift the wheel making sure the spacers remain in place and slide the axle into position from the left hand side see illustration 14 align the speedometer drive housing so that it butts against the lug on the fork slider and the cable socket faces rearwards see illustration 13 install the axle nut and tighten it to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the chapter see illustrations on us models fit a new split pin to the end of the axle 147
- B and tighten it to the specified torque setting 147
- Brakes wheels and tyres 147
- If it is loose note do not operate the front brake ever with the wheel removed 147
- Withdraw the axle and remove the wheel 147
- Removal 148
- Before riding the bike 149
- Brakes wheels and tyres 149
- Front wheel bearings 149
- Illustr8tions 4 using a metal rod preferably a brass drift punch inserted through the centre of the upper bearing tap evenly around the inner race of the lower bearing to drive it 149
- Inspection 149
- Note suzuki advise that the wheel bearings should be renewed if they are removed from the wheel always replace the wheel bearings in pairs never replace the bearings individually avoid using a high pressure cleaner on the wheel bearing area 149
- Remove the wheel see section 14 2 set the wheel on blocks so as not to allow the weight of the wheel to rest on the brake disc 149
- Seeulustration 149
- The hub see illustration the bearing spacer will also come out s lay the wheel on its other side so that the remaining bearing faces down drive the bearing out of the wheel using the same technique as above 149
- Tighten the axle nut to the specified torque setting 149
- 2 3 4 5 6 150
- A metal rod 150
- Axle drive chain adjuster plate drive chain adjuster caliper bracket spacer bearing 150
- B un the sprocket coupling out of the wheel noting the inner spacer arrow 150
- Brakes wheels and tyres 6 17 150
- Completely 150
- Compressed air don t let the bearings spin as you dry them apply a few drops of oil to the bearing note if the bearing is sealed on both sides don t attempt to clean it 150
- E ring spacer 8 damper segments 9 inner spacer 10 sprocket coupling 150
- If the bearings are of the unsealed type or are only sealed on one side clean them with a high flash point solvent one which won t leave any residue and blow them dry with 150
- Rear whee bearings 150
- Sprocket 12 bearing 150
- Using a drift to knock out the 150
- And fitting 151
- Brakes wheels and tyres 151
- General information 151
- Bodywork 154
- Ch 7 bodywork 154
- Chapter 154
- Installation 2 install the mirror into its mounting and screw it in until it is fully home adjust the position of the mirror until it is as required then tighten the locknut against the mounting 154
- To unlock the seat 154
- Bodywork 7 156
- Installation 156
- Removal 156
- Alternator 158
- Alternatorstatorcoils check 34 158
- Battery 158
- Battery capacity 158
- Battery electrolyte specific gravity k 8m qi p 1 brake light switches check and repiecement 14 brake taillightbulbs repiacement 9 ch8ging systwn ieekage and out test 32 charging system testing gena information p c iiion8 31 158
- Ch 8 electrical system 158
- Cha electrical system 158
- Check removal and installation 8 158
- F81y b 158
- Fa 1 y 158
- L yit t a 158
- Nojk e 1tie 158
- Replacement 7 158
- Starter motor 158
- 2 electrical system 159
- Electrical troubleshooting 159
- General information 159
- Removal and installation 159
- Electrical system 8 3 160
- Clockwise to release 162
- Electrical system 8 5 162
- Removal 162
- Are offset so it can o 163
- F th h d 163
- Remove the seat see chapter 7 2 trace the tail light wiring back from the bulbholders and disconnect it at the connector 163
- See illustration 163
- Should 163
- Unscrew the bolts secunng the brackets to the 2 turn the bulbholder anti clockwise and 163
- Y connec an 163
- 8 electrical system 165
- Rear removal 165
- Electrical system 8 9 166
- Replacement 166
- Electrical system 167
- Installation 167
- Speedometer cable removal 167
- Electrical 168
- 12 electrical system 169
- 14 electrical system 171
- Electrical 172
- Replacement 172
- System 8 15 172
- 18 electrical system 175
- Armature 175
- Disb88embly 175
- Inspection and reassembly 175
- Installation 175
- Electrical system 8 19 176
- Rnaembly 176
- Electrical 178
- No load 178
- Removal 178
- 24 electrical system 181
- And tighten its screws 181
- Replacement 181
- The regulator rectifier is secured by 181
- Unit to a suzuki dealer for confirmation of its chapter 7 trace the wiring back from the 5 install the new 181
- 1i t jii e red 182
- Wiring diagrams 182
- M b white 183
- Wiring diagrams 183
- B_hlto blocklwhlto 184
- Block yollow 184
- F yallow g 184
- Groon groen 184
- I lili 184
- Ii j i 184
- Orange white orange white 184
- Wiring diagrams 8 27 184
- Yeflow glean 184
- Yoilow graan 184
- J1t ii 185
- Jltr 1_1 185
- 1ll j i1t 186
- Black white 186
- Black white white r white 186
- Ii ti 0 z 186
- Ji i i ii i ii 186
- Wiring diagrams 186
- B k low t 187
- Ii 11 11 ii ii ii ii ij 187
- Ii i j 187
- It f 15 187
- Wiring diagrams 187
- Dimension 188
- Reference 188
- Weig hts 188
- As experience and confidence grow 189
- But serve as but sometimes there is no option 189
- Buying tools 189
- Can be added to enable the the manufacturer s service 189
- Equipped 189
- Expensive although not classed as tools a selection of a part number some of the commonly used good quality 189
- F d t i i t f poor quality 189
- Files refetted to in the relevant 189
- Identified by as a rule it is better to 189
- In addition avoided where required service tools are used so it may be pre erable to hire them or for items such 189
- Keys cn a ts 12 feeler gauges 16 fiivie and 189
- Motorcycle 189
- Offset by the savings made by doing the job service 189
- Personal 189
- Set of t 189
- Setofflat 189
- Specialist tools are expensive and not often are needed for this level of 189
- Suppliers 189
- The original saving 189
- There will be an initial e pens in uilding up always aim to rchase t 1s which t anufacturer s service tools enough tools for servicing this will soon be the relevant national safety standbtus inevitably certain tasks require 189
- Warning to avoid the risk of a the haynes motorcycle workshop practice a t ik 189
- Specialist tools 190
- T 0015 ref 190
- Maint techniques 191
- Maintenance 191
- Maintenance techniques 191
- Are used encountered in brake clutch systems 192
- Be brake and clutch fluid 192
- Carburettor 192
- Chain lubricants 192
- Chemicals lubricants 192
- Contact point spark plug cleaner 192
- Cylinder thread locking compound 192
- Gasket sealing compounds 192
- Moisture dispersants 192
- Motor oil 192
- Motorcycle chemicals and lubricants 192
- Multi purpose grease 192
- Non wax 192
- Silicone based lubricants 192
- Th d t i com na ion wi egreasers 0 c ean ranging from cleaning solvents and recommended weight of the 011 depends 192
- Types for different 192
- Waxes and polishes 192
- Withstand 192
- Electrical system 193
- Mot test checks 193
- Test checks 193
- The mot test 193
- Exhaust system and final drive 194
- Mot test checks ref 194
- Steering and suspension 194
- Brakes wheels and tyres 195
- Pad wear can usually be viewed 195
- The braking foul the 195
- And sidewall condition see 196
- Check that 196
- General checks and condition 196
- Mot test checks ref 9 196
- Sidecars 196
- Preparing for storage 197
- Storage 197
- Storage 198
- Abnonnal engine noise 199
- Abnormal frame and suspension noise 199
- Engine doesn t start or is difficult to start 199
- Fault finding 199
- Poor running 199
- Pressure indicator light comes on 199
- Be wet no spark or weak spark 200
- Compression low 200
- Engine doesn t start or is difficult to start 200
- Fault finding ref 3 200
- Statter motor rotates but engine does not turn over chapter 4 for details 200
- Continued 201
- Doesn t start or is difficult to start 201
- Engine 201
- Fault finding 201
- Poor running at low speeds 201
- Finding ref 15 202
- Poor running at low speeds continued 202
- Poor running or no power at high speed 202
- Clutch problems 203
- Finding 203
- Overheating 203
- Ref 6 f au it 203
- Abnormal engine noise 204
- Fault finding 204
- Gear shifting problems 204
- Excessive exhaust smoke 205
- Fault finding 9 abnormal frame and suspension noise 205
- Oil pressure light comes on 205
- Fault finding 206
- Poor handling or stability 206
- Battery dead or weak 207
- Battery overcharged 207
- Electrical problems 207
- Fault finding 207
- Fault finding equipment 207
- A hydrometer is used for measuring 208
- After one or two revolutions the pressure should build up to a maximum figure and then stab llse take a note of this reading and on multi cylinder engines repeat the test on the remaining cylinders 7 the correct pressures are given in chapter 2 specifications if the results fall within the specified range and on multi cylinder engines all are relatively equal the engine is in good condition if there is a marked difference between the readings or if the readings are lower than specified inspection of the top end components will be required 8 low compression pressure may be due to worn cylinder bores pistons or rings failure of the cylinder head gasket worn valve seals or poor valve seating 9 to distinguish between cylinder piston wear and valve leakage pour a small quantity of oil into the bore to temporarily seal the piston rings then repeat the compression tests see illustration 3 if the readings show a noticeable increase in pressure this confirms that the cylinder bore piston or rin 208
- All spark plugs must be earthed grounded against the cylinder head 208
- Battery open circuit 208
- Checking 208
- Contact your skin or clothing 208
- Finding equipment 208
- Gravity 208
- If it does wash it off and seek immediate medical attention 208
- Illustration 208
- Measuring open circuit battery voltage 208
- Never smoke or create any 208
- Produced 208
- Roat type hydrometer for m8a oong battery speciftc gravity 208
- S install 208
- Sparks in the vicinity of the battery never allow the electrolyte to 208
- Specific gravity make sure you purchase one which has a small enough hose to 1nser1 in the ape1 ture of a motorcycle battery specific gravity is simply a measure of the electrolyte s density compared with that of water water has an sg of 1 00 and fully charged battery electrolyte is about 26 heavier at 1 60 specific gravity checks are not possible on malnt ance free batteries testing the open circuit voltage is the only means of determining their state of charge 208
- The specific gravity check gives an 208
- Voltage 208
- Warning 208
- Warning the gases produced 208
- Finding equipment 209
- For voltage 209
- Ref 2 f au i 209
- Voltage can be checked with a dc 209
- A short circuit 210
- Fault finding equipment ref 3 210
- Ref 24 211
- Technical terms 211
- Technical terms explained 211
- Technical 212
- Terms explained ref 25 212
- Technical terms explained 213
- Technical terms explained 214
- Capacity 215
- Conversion factors 215
- Cubic centimetres cc cm utres 1 utres q us quarts us qt utres 1 utres 1 us gallons us ga utres q 215
- Fuel consumption 215
- Grams g kilograms kg 215
- Inches in x 25 mililmetres mm x 0 394 feet ft x 0 05 metres m x 3 81 miles x 1 09 kilometres km x 0 21 215
- Kilometres per litre km i x 2 25 215
- Length distance 215
- Mass weight 215
- Miles per 215
- Miles per gallon mpg 215
- Miles per gallon mpg x 0 54 215
- Pounds force 215
- Pounds force inches x 1 52 215
- Pounds force per square inch psi ibflln ib in pounds force per square inch psi ibfll ib in pounds force per square inch 215
- Pounds lb 215
- Pressure 215
- Ref 28 215
- Temperature 215
- Torque moment of force 215
- Velocity speed 215
- Volume 215
- X 0 13 215
- X 0 35 x 2 05 215
- X 0 68 215
- X 0 78 x 4 48 x 0 215
- X 0 81 x 1 6 x 0 8 x 0 33 x 1 51 x 0 2 x 0 33 x 0 64 215
- X 1 09 215
- X 1 33 x 2 91 x 1 68 x 27 8 215
- X 16 87 x 0 68 x 1 37 x 1 01 z x o x 4 46 z x 1 01 x 3 85 215
- X 28 5 x 0 54 215
- X 3 x 0 25 x 9 1 215
- 1 charging 216
- 14 replacement 216
- 16 1 21 5 15 steering head 1 14 1 21 5 11 wheei 1 19 6 16 bodywork 7 1 216
- 2 1 6 ref 21 voltage 216
- 2 specific gravity 216
- 3 2 54 battery capacity 216
- 3 electrolyte level 216
- 3 rear 216
- 5 housing removal and installation 216
- 51 rear suspension 216
- 54 connecting rod 216
- 56 main 216
- Air filter cleaning 216
- Balancer sh8ft 216
- Ceblea choke 1 17 3 13 clutch 1 12 2 32 216
- I bulb 8 6 216
- Ref 21 beerlngs balancer shaft 216
- Removal and installation 216
- Removal installation inspection and mai 216
- Throttle 1 11 1 17 12 caliper brake front 216
- Camc ia r 2 9 2 1 camshafts 2 2 217
- Cieri 9 217
- Disc 6 5 217
- Disc brake 217
- Front check 1 16 217
- Fuse 8 217
- Ng ln 2 58 217
- Oi 2 7 oil 2 3 217
- Oi ctw q8 1 0 217
- Pad check 1 13 217
- Ref 3d 217
- Side 8 4 217
- 10 1 2 10 218
- Bearings 218
- Idle tuel air mixture ustment 3 mirrors 7 1 specifications 3 1 mot test checks ref tank 3 3 mudguard 218
- Timing 4 218
- 1 14 13 219
- 2 2 2 17 219
- 8 4 oi 8 2 sidestand 5 219
- I 1 0 01 0 10 219
- Overhaul 219
- Ref 32 219
- Selector dnn 81d forb 219
- T 8 ref 2 219
- T pt 0 12 1 219
- Vin 0 9 219
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